服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計方法論研究

暫缺《服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計方法論研究》簡介

　　作為山東工藝美術(shù)學院服裝設(shè)計專業(yè)的首屆畢業(yè)生，呂學海在入學之前曾在企業(yè)做過多年的服裝生產(chǎn)與技術(shù)管理工作，有著豐富的實踐經(jīng)驗。1987 年畢業(yè)留校任教以來，長期致力于設(shè)計藝術(shù)與工藝技術(shù)方面的教學研究，編纂了多部教材，獲得了多項省級優(yōu)秀教學成果及科研成果獎。他樂于求知，勤于探索，治學耕耘，勤學不輟，在近天命之年考取了蘇州大學博士研究生，面壁四載，完成了博士論文并取得學位。本書也是在其博士論文基礎(chǔ)上經(jīng)過補充和完善形成的又一成果。天道酬勤，呂學海的該項研究經(jīng)過層層篩選于2009 年獲得國家社科基金藝術(shù)學項目立項。應(yīng)該說，這一研究改變了將“設(shè)計”與“工程”分離的研究方式，為服裝設(shè)計理論建設(shè)和方法改良做了有益的嘗試；提出了以“藝術(shù)賦形”為主導(dǎo)的技術(shù)思想，就實現(xiàn)設(shè)計藝術(shù)與科學技術(shù)的有機結(jié)合提出了一種比較新的研究思路；同時，基于圖形學原理的服裝技術(shù)試驗，從一個新的角度對服裝結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算方法進行了求證，強化了技術(shù)原理與設(shè)計造型之間的內(nèi)在聯(lián)系；通過對設(shè)計過程要素的整合，建立了服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程模型，為設(shè)計者提供了一種普遍聯(lián)系的思維引導(dǎo)工具?！久襟w評論】評論【目錄】目錄 第1章緒論 ·······001 1.1 研究背景及意義 ··································004 1.1.1 從“量體裁衣”到系統(tǒng)設(shè)計 ····················005 1.1.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計研究的理論價值 ·················007 1.1.3 構(gòu)建系統(tǒng)設(shè)計方法的實踐意義 ·················010 1.2 研究內(nèi)容及理論基礎(chǔ) ····························012 1.2.1 一般系統(tǒng)論思想 ···································013 1.2.2 設(shè)計過程理論 ····016 1.2.3 傳統(tǒng)造物觀念 ····019 1.3 研究思路與基本觀點 ····························023 1.3.1 設(shè)計總體上是一個邏輯的過程 ·················023 1.3.2 整體觀念是設(shè)計過程的核心 ····················026 1.3.3 科學化是設(shè)計方法發(fā)展的趨勢 ·················027 1.4 國內(nèi)外研究現(xiàn)狀分析 ····························030 1.4.1 國外研究現(xiàn)狀 ····030 1.4.2 國內(nèi)研究現(xiàn)狀 ····034 1.4.3 存在問題分析 ····036 1.5 研究方法及論文組織 ····························036 1.5.1 研究方法 ··········036 1.5.2 繼承與創(chuàng)新 ·······038 1.5.3 內(nèi)容組織 ··········039第2 章服裝設(shè)計的一般過程及知識框架······················· 0432.1 設(shè)計過程的概念辨析 ···························· 044 2.1.1 設(shè)計與過程 ·······045 2.1.2 過程與階段 ·······046 2.1.3 階段與程序 ·······048 2.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計的構(gòu)成要素 ······················ 049 2.2.1 設(shè)計對象與產(chǎn)品定義 ·····························050 2.2.2 設(shè)計問題與設(shè)計內(nèi)容 ·····························052 2.2.3 設(shè)計原則與設(shè)計任務(wù) ·····························054 2.2.4 設(shè)計知識與設(shè)計流程 ·····························058 2.2.5 設(shè)計創(chuàng)意與技術(shù)實現(xiàn) ·····························061 2.2.6 設(shè)計評價與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························064 2.3 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計的相關(guān)研究 ······················ 067 2.3.1 服裝功能與屬性 ···································068 2.3.2 服裝形態(tài)與元素 ···································071 2.3.3 服裝結(jié)構(gòu)與工藝 ···································074 2.3.4 服裝色彩與材料 ···································077 2.3.5 設(shè)計藝術(shù)與科學技術(shù) ·····························083 2.3.6 設(shè)計觀與方法論 ···································085 2.4 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計的運行模式 ······················ 089 2.4.1 串行模式 ··········091 2.4.2 并行模式 ··········093 2.4.3 循環(huán)模式 ··········094 2.4.4 系統(tǒng)模式 ··········095 2.5 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計的一般過程 ······················ 096 2.5.1 任務(wù)分析與目標確認 ·····························0972.5.2 設(shè)計調(diào)研與資料收集 ·····························0992.5.3 需求分析與產(chǎn)品定位 ·····························1012.5.4 設(shè)計創(chuàng)意與視覺表達 ·····························1042.5.5 設(shè)計評價與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························1062.5.6 結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計與紙樣制作 ·····························1072.5.7 工藝設(shè)計與樣衣試制 ·····························1092.5.8 綜合評價與生產(chǎn)準備 ····························· 1102.5.9 批量生產(chǎn)與市場反饋 ····························· 111 小結(jié)························· 111第3 章服裝創(chuàng)意的理論基礎(chǔ)與生成機制························ 1153.1 創(chuàng)意理論的產(chǎn)生與發(fā)展 ························· 1173.1.1 創(chuàng)意概念的內(nèi)涵 ··································· 1173.1.2 創(chuàng)意方法的研究 ··································· 1193.1.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的本質(zhì) ···································1213.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的相關(guān)理論 ···························· 1223.2.1 “魔島”與“萬花筒”理論 ····················123 3.2.2 “拼圖”與“組合”理論 ·······················1253.2.3 “遷移”與“變通”理論 ······················1263.2.4 等價轉(zhuǎn)換理論 ····1273.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的基本方法 ··························· 1303.3.1 集思廣益的智力激勵法 ··························1303.3.2 科學理性的特征列舉法 ·························1323.3.3 變陌生為熟悉的綜攝法 ··························1343.3.4 由設(shè)問引發(fā)創(chuàng)意的核對單法 ····················137 3.3.5 基于系統(tǒng)觀的形態(tài)分析法 ·······················1383.3.6 師法自然的生物模擬法 ··························1403.3.7 感性工學之語義微分法 ·························1413.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的思維特征 ···························· 1443.4.1 感性與理性的結(jié)合 ································1453.4.2 發(fā)散與收斂的循環(huán) ································1473.4.3 直覺與靈感的捕捉 ································1503.4.4 聯(lián)想與想象的延伸 ································1523.4.5 綜合與系統(tǒng)的梳理 ································1563.5 服裝創(chuàng)意的生成機制 ···························· 1573.5.1 服裝創(chuàng)意的素材 ···································1583.5.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的條件 ···································1603.5.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的原理 ···································1623.5.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的引導(dǎo) ···································1693.6 服裝創(chuàng)意的一般過程 ···························· 1733.6.1 提出問題階段 ····1743.6.2 創(chuàng)意醞釀階段 ····1753.6.3 創(chuàng)意孵化階段 ····1763.6.4 創(chuàng)意完成階段 ····1773.6.5 創(chuàng)意完善階段 ····1793.6.6 創(chuàng)意表達階段 ····180 小結(jié)·························181第4 章服裝設(shè)計的物化觀念與技術(shù)思想························· 1854.1 設(shè)計物化觀決定技術(shù)方法論 ···················1874.1.1 物化概念及其技術(shù)思想 ··························1874.1.2 功能與形態(tài)的辯證統(tǒng)一 ··························1904.1.3 藝術(shù)與技術(shù)的協(xié)同發(fā)展 ··························1934.2 服裝技術(shù)研究的科學觀 ························· 1974.2.1 服裝形態(tài)的構(gòu)成原理 ·····························1974.2.2 服裝結(jié)構(gòu)的表現(xiàn)形式 ·····························2044.2.3 服裝技術(shù)的系統(tǒng)建構(gòu) ····························2064.3 服裝技術(shù)研究的藝術(shù)觀 ························· 2094.3.1 服裝形態(tài)的審美特征 ·····························2104.3.2 服裝形態(tài)的符號意義 ·····························2124.3.3 服裝物化中的技術(shù)美 ·····························2164.4 服裝技術(shù)研究的方法論 ························· 2184.4.1 面向?qū)嵺`的技術(shù)原則 ·····························2194.4.2 辯證統(tǒng)一的造物觀念 ·····························2214.4.3 藝術(shù)賦形的技術(shù)觀點 ·····························2244.4.4 科學系統(tǒng)的操作程序 ·····························2264.5 服裝物化的一般過程 ···························· 2274.5.1 形態(tài)分析 ··········2294.5.2 功能分析 ··········2294.5.3 材料分析 ··········2304.5.4 結(jié)構(gòu)分析 ··········2314.5.5 紙樣設(shè)計 ··········2314.5.6 工藝設(shè)計 ··········2324.5.7 樣衣試制 ··········2334.5.8 綜合評價 ··········2334.5.9 系列紙樣 ··········2344.5.10 生產(chǎn)應(yīng)用 ·········234 小結(jié)·························235第5 章服裝形態(tài)的構(gòu)成原理及相關(guān)實驗··············· 2395.1 實驗概述 ········· 2405.1.1 實驗?zāi)康募耙饬x ···································2415.1.2 實驗內(nèi)容與方法 ···································2425.1.3 實驗手段及步驟 ···································2425.2 人體圖像采集與測量 ···························· 2445.2.1 人體圖像采集 ····2445.2.2 人體圖形歸納 ····2455.2.3 人體圖形測量 ····2475.2.4 測量數(shù)據(jù)分析 ····2475.3 領(lǐng)型結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算 ···························· 2485.3.1 領(lǐng)圈的構(gòu)成原理與計算 ··························2485.3.2 領(lǐng)子的構(gòu)成原理與變化規(guī)律 ····················251 5.3.3 關(guān)于領(lǐng)子松量的計算 ·····························2555.3.4 領(lǐng)型結(jié)構(gòu)原理在制圖中的應(yīng)用 ·················2605.4 袖型結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算 ···························· 2635.4.1 袖型結(jié)構(gòu)原理解析 ································2635.4.2 袖山結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算 ·····························2645.4.3 袖窿結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算 ·····························2655.4.4 肩線的傾斜量與計算 ·····························2675.5 衣身結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計算 ···························· 2695.5.1 人體截面形態(tài)分析 ································2705.5.2 人體數(shù)學模型的構(gòu)建與測量 ····················272 5.5.3 服裝應(yīng)用制圖的生成與計算 ····················275小結(jié)·························280第6 章服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計方法的構(gòu)建及應(yīng)用················· 2836.1 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程整合 ························· 2846.1.1 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程模型的構(gòu)架 ·······················2856.1.2 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程的運行模式 ·······················2866.1.3 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程模型的整合 ·······················2876.1.4 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計過程模型的應(yīng)用 ·······················2896.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計案例分析 ························· 2906.2.1 設(shè)計準備階段 ····2906.2.2 設(shè)計創(chuàng)意階段 ····3016.2.3 設(shè)計物化階段 ····3146.2.4 設(shè)計完成階段 ····320 小結(jié)·························321第7 章結(jié)論······· 3237.1 系統(tǒng)化是設(shè)計發(fā)展的客觀要求 ················ 3257.2 程序化是設(shè)計過程的有效機制 ················ 3267.3 藝術(shù)化是服裝技術(shù)的最高境界 ················ 3277.4 科學化是設(shè)計方法的必然趨勢 ················ 327參考文獻················ 329 附錄A ··················· 336 附錄B ··················· 346 附錄C ··················· 353 附錄D ··················· 358 附錄E ··················· 359 附錄F ··················· 361 后記······················ 367